It’s hard to believe, but I’ve been in Israel for a week already! I’ve learned a lot, seen a lot, and am getting more and more comfortable with life here. Let me tell you what I’ve done since my last blog post:

Sunday morning was warm and sunny, and instead of going to one of the churches listed in my orientation packet, I decided to return to the Old City. I wanted to go to the Temple Mount, because I haven’t been on top of it since 1992. Much has happened there since that time, including the intafada and the alarming construction of the new mosque. I left my apartment at 8:20 a.m. and I hiked to the Old City, through it to the Temple Mount entrance, cleared security, and was on top by 9:00!

What a thrill it was to be there again too! No matter what you feel about Islam, Muslims, or mosques, the Dome of the Rock is a beautiful building, and wherever you roam across the Mount, its shining dome dominates everything. And roam, I certainly did! A number of tourist groups were around the El Aqsa Mosque, so I moved away from them and headed toward the southeast corner of the Mount. There I saw the new underground mosque that seems to still be under construction. It has caused so much controversy because in the process of digging out the earth, the Muslim leadership did not follow archeological protocol and record what was removed. Tons of valuable historic remains were dumped in piles, then carted away without consideration of the damage they were doing to the precious historical and archeological record of the Mount. A couple of years ago, a bulge also began to appear on the south wall of the Old City, and it was suspected that this very dangerous situation was also the result of the new mosque project. I have followed all of this quite closely, so seeing the site with my own eyes was very interesting.

From there, I walked north, along the eastern wall (the wall I had walked along the day before--at ground level!) and through the breaks I caught some fabulous views of Gethsemane, the Church of the Tear, the gold onion domes of St. Mary Magdalene Church, and the entire Mount of Olives. Then, there before me, was the back side of the Golden Gate! I was able to look at it from this whole new perspective, after years of seeing it only from the front, blocked by the Muslim cemetery. I snapped a number of pictures for the record, in case the Mount is closed to tourists again in the future.

The north side of the Mount is some kind of school or Islamic recreation area. I greeted a number of Palestinians as I headed back west to the western wall (the same one where the Jews pray) and south to the entrance again where I began my tour of the Mount. Throughout my circuit of the Temple Mount, I took photos of the Dome of the Rock from different perspectives. Then I headed up to go inside--only to be told that tourists (non-Muslims) are still not allowed inside. I was very disappointed. I wanted to see again the rock where Isaac was nearly sacrificed, where David purchased the land from Araunah, and where the Ark of the Covenant--and the Temple itself--once stood! But I was shut out.

I left the Mount, and returned to the Western Wall to have “church.” I spent over an hour there, praying through my list from home, the Covenant missionary prayer calendar, and feeling a special peace and attitude of worship as I lingered there. I also witnessed a lot of interesting people coming to pray at the wall. Two young devout Jewish men spent quite a bit of time there, wrapping themselves in their prayer shawls and touching the wall as they prayed separately and together. As I was leaving, one of them asked me to take their picture at the place they had prayed. I did, and then one of them asked if I wanted my picture taken too! It’s one that I’m including here for you. (Unfortunately, I had forgotten to take my new “kipah” (yarmulke) to wear that day.)

Before heading home, I went to see the Cardo, the heart of old Jerusalem, that has a section of pillars and other remains from Roman times, along with interesting Jewish shops. I bought another of those pizza-like pita things to eat--this time with my favorite “zatar” spice on top--and munched it as I watched the tourists and Jews of all ages walking along the Cardo.

I wasted the afternoon at an internet cafe trying to get online to post my previous blog entry, but my laptop wouldn’t connect. (Fortunately, the next day, the computer whiz here at Bridges For Peace got me online--and also got me a dial-up account right into my apartment so I can do all my internet and Emil correspondence in the comfort of my own home--for about $8.00 a month! That’s a hint to keep in close touch with me...) I consoled myself by going shopping at the “shuk”, getting bagels at a bread shop, and stopping for a latte at a cafe. It had turned downright cold while I was struggling with the internet, and the coffee tasted great. Back home, I made supper and got ready for my first real day of work with BFP.

I had to be in the parking lot at 7:15 a.m. to be picked up and driven to the Distribution Center, which is some distance from headquarters. My supervisor on the Home Repair Team, James, lives nearby and picks up three of us who live here at headquarters. We opened up the Center, got coffee going, and set up chairs for devotions, which begin every morning at 8:30. Volunteers and staff began to arrive, and I was pleased that so many of them remembered me from my brief time with them on Friday. After devotions, my team headed back to work at headquarters, on a new kitchen that will be used when tour groups come to learn about the BFP organization. (I think I’m going to be working for quite awhile on some headquarters projects before I get out into Jewish homes.) It was a warm, sunny day--and my first job was with tile! Cutting, gluing, and spacing white squares on one of the walls. I’ve never done this before, and it was a challenge--especially because the cutting was all done “free style,” with no guide to make a straight cut. But my team was patient with me, and I only had to re-cut one because of a mistake.

I work with four other men: two South Africans, a New Zealander, and an American from Great Falls, Montana. James and Bob, the South Africans, give Robbie, the New Zealander, a lot of teasing and he dishes it right back, so there is a relaxed, carefree environment that makes it easy for me to ask lots of questions and know I won’t be ridiculed or criticized for being so ignorant about “home improvements.” Larry, from Montana, is an easy going guy and very helpful to me. As the week has gone on, I have gotten to know these men better and they are strong men of God, really committed to the Lord, and inspiring to me. James has been with Bridges for over four years! And Bob and his wife are here long term too, for years (not months).

Other things that I’ve done at work this week include painting trim, cement walls, and doorways, building storage shelves, filling the tile with grout, cleaning up and organizing the workshop, and painting new windows for the BFP teaching room with another Home Repair Team member, Dave, from Florida. I have also helped move heavy loads of food to the delivery trucks at the Distribution Center when they have been short of MAN power, and I delivered a washing machine that Bob fixed to a woman in a Jerusalem neighborhood. It is certainly a different routine from my life in Hilmar! But I am enjoying this different focus, routine, and community of people. I only have to think about today, not next Sunday, next month, Holy Week services, special events and activities, etc.

Sometimes my nights, all alone in my apartment, get a bit long and lonely, but I am trying to embrace these feelings and see them as opportunities to be more open and responsive to God. I am beginning to set a routine each night too. After work, I clean up and head down to Jaffa Street, Ben Yehuda Mall, or the shuk to shop, get cash, and then unwind in a cafe with a latte or cappuccino as I write postcards, peruse the “Jerusalem Times,” or read a book or magazine. When I get home, I spend time in prayer, writing in my journal, making dinner, and catching up on e-mails. Because my mornings are so early now (6:00 a.m.--or 5:30 on Tuesdays, when I have to take the bus to the Distribution Center!), I try to get to bed by 10:00 p.m. I’m still not sleeping through the night, the last remnants of jet lag still affecting my sleep patterns. I hope that by this coming weekend, I’ll be caught up with the time change and able to get a good eight hours of rest.

That’s about it--for now. I hope this account of my first week in Jerusalem has been interesting for you. It sure has been for me! As I head into my second shabbat, I’m looking forward to going to the holy sites that I missed last weekend (Gethsemane, Mount of Olives, St. Peter in Galicantu, etc.) and also to visiting one of the churches that BFP people attend. On Saturday morning, I’m especially excited about having coffee with Gabi Herz, the Israeli tour guide that has led all three of the previous Holy Land trips I’ve taken (many of you know Gabi too). We’re meeting at the Garden Tomb on Saturday and then going out to renew our friendship as his tour group heads to Bethlehem without him (because the Palestinians control Bethlehem now, Israeli tour guides can’t go in with their groups).

For now, shalom from Jerusalem!

Pictures: 1. St. Mary Magdalene Church thru Old City wall 2. Golden Gate--from inside the Temple Mount! 3. Dome of the Rock 4. closeup of mosaic facade of Dome of the Rock 5. Western (“wailing”) Wall 6, 7, 8, Jews praying 9. ME at the Wall 10. written prayers stuffed into the cracks of the Western Wall 11-15. me at work this first week with Bridges